An invisible community of bacteria, yeasts and other microorganisms lives on the surface of the skin: it is the skin microbiome, and in recent years it has become one of the most studied topics in cosmetics. Understanding how this ecosystem works helps explain why some skins react to everything and why an overly aggressive routine can make things worse. Probiotics and prebiotics are the actives designed precisely to work on this balance.
What the skin microbiome is
The skin microbiome (or microbiota) is the community of microorganisms that naturally colonise the epidermis. Its composition varies from one area of the face to another, with age, with the climate and with daily habits. When it is balanced, it helps maintain the skin's slightly acidic pH, takes part in the defence against external agents and is in constant dialogue with the skin barrier. When it is thrown off balance, for example by over-degreasing cleansers, exfoliations too close together or environmental stress, the skin can look more reactive, red and dehydrated. Skin balance starts right here.
Probiotics, prebiotics and postbiotics: the differences
The three terms are often used interchangeably, but they mean different things. Prebiotics are nutrient substrates, such as certain sugars and plant-derived polysaccharides, that support the "good" microorganisms already present on the skin. Probiotics are the microorganisms themselves: in cosmetics they are never used live, but in inactivated form or as lysates, meaning cell fragments and their components, for reasons of formula stability and safety. Postbiotics, finally, are the metabolites produced by microorganisms during fermentation: peptides, short-chain fatty acids, polysaccharides. It is precisely these derivatives, more stable and well tolerated, that represent the most interesting area of research today.
How they work and what benefits they offer
"Microbiome-friendly" actives do not fight bacteria: they work on the environment they live in. Prebiotics help favour beneficial species over opportunistic ones, contributing to a more stable ecosystem. Probiotic lysates and ferments, such as Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, are studied for their contribution to skin balance and to the skin's resistance to daily stress. Overall, the goal is to reduce reactivity and support the barrier function, so that the skin retains water better and reacts less to external stimuli. Less reactivity, more daily comfort.
The benefits observed most often concern the feeling of comfort, a reduction in the appearance of redness and better hydration: gradual effects that build up with consistent use. These are always cosmetics, which act on the appearance and feel of the skin: for specific skin conditions, a dermatologist remains the point of reference.
How to add them to your routine
Probiotics and prebiotics are easy actives to introduce: they require no special precautions, are applied morning and evening and pair well with almost everything. But a routine that respects the microbiome is first and foremost a routine that does not stress the skin. Less aggression, more consistency.
- Gentle cleansing. Choose cleansers with a physiological pH and no harsh surfactants: it is the first step of the day that influences the microbiome.
- Daily treatment. A cream with prebiotics and probiotics applied morning and evening is the simplest way to support skin balance consistently.
- Exfoliation in moderation. Acids and exfoliants remain useful, but they need to be dosed: once or twice a week, in the evening, never on already irritated skin and always with SPF the following day.
- Pairing with ceramides. Microbiome and lipid barrier work together: ceramide treatments complete the action of prebiotics.
- Sun protection in the morning. Environmental stress, blue light included, is among the factors that alter skin balance: SPF remains an ally all year round.
Recommended Chrissie products
In the Probiotics and Prebiotics collection you will find the treatments formulated to respect and support the skin microbiota, designed for those whose skin gets irritated easily or reacts to product changes.
For all skin types, Time Balance Gel Cream from the Hydracare line combines prebiotics and probiotics with hyaluronic acids of different molecular weights and Glyceryl Glucoside: a fresh, lightweight gel cream that hydrates on several levels and helps protect the skin from the effects of environmental stress and blue light. It is ideal as a daily treatment, morning and evening, even under make-up.
For sensitive, redness-prone skin, Calm Defense Cream from the Dermosensitive line pairs prebiotics and probiotics (Lactococcus Ferment Lysate) with biomimetic ceramides, Allantoin, Bisabolol and D-Panthenol: it helps strengthen the skin barrier and gives an immediate feeling of relief, helping to reduce the appearance of redness.
In brief
- The skin microbiome is the community of microorganisms that live on the skin and support its balance.
- Prebiotics nourish beneficial microorganisms; probiotics, always inactivated or in lysate form in cosmetics, promote their stability; postbiotics are their metabolites.
- They help reduce reactivity, support the skin barrier and improve comfort and hydration.
- They are used morning and evening, with no special precautions, and pair well with ceramides.
- A routine that respects the microbiome is above all a gentle routine: mild cleansing, exfoliation in moderation, SPF in the morning.
