Propolis: the purifying active that rebalances the skin
When it comes to oily, blemish-prone skin, our first thought is usually exfoliating acids and sebum-regulating actives. Yet among the ingredients returning to the spotlight there is one of natural origin with a long history behind it: propolis. A favourite of Korean skincare and increasingly common in dermocosmetic formulas, it is an active that works differently from exfoliants: rather than "attacking" impurities, it helps the skin regain its own balance.
What is propolis?
Propolis is a resinous substance that bees make by collecting resins and buds from trees and plants and mixing them with their own secretions and wax. Inside the hive it has a very specific job: sealing cracks and protecting the interior from external agents. Its very name, from the Greek "pro" (in front of) and "polis" (city), recalls this defensive role at the entrance of the hive. In cosmetics it is used as an extract (INCI: Propolis Extract), and its composition varies according to its botanical origin: the most studied components are flavonoids and phenolic acids, which give it its antioxidant properties.
How it works on the skin: the benefits
Propolis is a multifunctional active. The first front is purifying and rebalancing: the extract helps keep the skin's microbial flora, the microbiota, in balance, which in blemish-prone skin tends to tip in a way that favours the appearance of imperfections. It doesn't sterilise skin, it rebalances it: an important difference compared with overly harsh cleansers, which can disrupt the hydrolipidic film and trigger, in response, even more sebum production.
The second front is antioxidant. Flavonoids and polyphenols help counter the free radicals generated by pollution and UV rays, which contribute to a dull, uneven-looking complexion. Finally, propolis has a calming action: it helps soften the reddened look of imperfections and the discomfort that often comes with them.
Why it works well with other purifying actives
Propolis performs at its best in synergy. Paired with salicylic acid, which works inside the pores, and niacinamide, which helps regulate sebum, it rounds out the routine with a balancing, comforting action. It is also a good companion for prebiotics and probiotics, with which it shares a focus on the skin microbiota.
How to add it to your routine
Propolis is suitable for daily use, morning and evening, and is particularly recommended for combination, oily and blemish-prone skin. The simplest way to start is to entrust it with the first step of the routine, cleansing, and then follow with a light purifying treatment that doesn't weigh skin down. Fewer steps, but done consistently: blemish-prone skin responds poorly to constant product changes and to an excess of actives.
Two precautions. First: as a hive product, propolis can cause reactions in people who are allergic to bee products such as honey, wax or pollen. In that case avoid it or, before using it on your face, test it on a small area, such as the inner forearm, for a few days; if in doubt, ask a professional for advice. Second: if the formula also contains salicylic acid, always finish your morning routine with adequate sun protection.
Recommended Chrissie products
You'll find the range's formulas in the selection dedicated to Propolis and, more broadly, in the Blemishes and Excess Sebum category.
- For daily cleansing: Foam Cleanser is a foaming cleanser that removes impurities, excess sebum and make-up, including waterproof. It combines propolis extract, prebiotics, panthenol and salicylic acid for clean, fresh skin with no feeling of tightness.
- For a purifying treatment: Pore-Refining Gel Cream is a gel cream with a matte finish designed for combination and oily skin with visible pores: salicylic acid, niacinamide and zinc help keep skin more matte and balanced, while a plant complex helps rebalance the microbiota.
In short
- Propolis is a resin produced by bees, rich in flavonoids and phenolic acids.
- It helps rebalance the skin microbiota, has an antioxidant action and helps calm the look of imperfections.
- It is ideal for combination, oily and blemish-prone skin, morning and evening.
- It works in synergy with salicylic acid, niacinamide and prebiotics.
- People allergic to bee products should avoid it or test it first on a small area.
- Try it with Foam Cleanser and Pore-Refining Gel Cream.
