When it comes to anti-age, one ingredient has dominated the conversation for decades: retinol. Alongside it, in recent times, attention has grown towards a gentler, plant-derived version, phytoretinol. The current trend goes precisely in this direction: more and more people are looking for actives that are effective yet tolerable even for sensitive skin, with gentle, sustainable formulas. In this guide we look at what they are, how they work and how to add them to your routine without stressing the skin.
What retinol and phytoretinol are
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative, among the most studied actives in the cosmetic field. It is appreciated because it helps improve the appearance of wrinkles, uneven texture and a dull tone, supporting the skin's natural cell renewal process.
Phytoretinol is a plant-derived alternative that mimics the action of retinol with a gentler profile. It is often chosen by those with reactive skin or those approaching these actives for the first time, because it tends to be better tolerated and, unlike traditional retinol, is generally not photosensitising. This is precisely the most current angle of the trend: the pursuit of anti-age results with gentle ingredients, suited to daily use and to more skin types.
How they work: the benefits
Both actives work on the appearance of the signs of time. In general they can help to:
- soften the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines;
- make the skin's surface smoother and more even;
- give a brighter, firmer look;
- support the feeling of renewed skin over time.
Retinol is often preferred by those seeking more marked action, while phytoretinol represents a softer entry choice. In many modern formulas these actives are paired with peptides for a more complete anti-age effect on the skin's appearance.
How to add it to your routine
Retinol and its derivatives are best used in the evening, because light can reduce their stability and because at night the skin is in its resting phase. The American Academy of Dermatology also advises using retinoids only in the evening, starting with the least intense formulation on alternate evenings and always pairing them with sun protection during the day. Some practical tips:
- Introduce the active gradually, 2-3 times a week, increasing the frequency only when your skin shows it tolerates it well.
- Apply a small amount to a clean, dry face, followed by your usual moisturising cream.
- In the early days you may feel slight dryness: help your skin with hydrating, soothing products, for example a formula rich in ceramides that supports the skin barrier.
- The following morning, always apply sun protection: skin treated with retinoids is more exposed to the action of UV rays. SPF should be reapplied every 2 hours in case of prolonged exposure.
Avoid layering too many aggressive actives (such as acid exfoliants) on the same evening so as not to stress the skin barrier: if you are interested in alternating them in an orderly way, the skin cycling method is a good starting point.
Recommended Chrissie products
To approach this active in a simple way, you can start from our dedicated selection: the Retinol collection gathers the formulas designed for anti-age renewal.
A good starting point is the Phytoretinol-Multi Peptides booster: it combines plant-derived phytoretinol with peptides, for a targeted anti-age gesture on the look of wrinkles and firmness, with a profile designed to be well tolerated.
Always complete your daytime routine with sun protection: it is the step that helps preserve results and protect skin treated with retinoids. And if you want to place the retinoid within a broader strategy, we discuss it in the article dedicated to skin longevity.
In short
- Retinol: a vitamin A derivative, with more marked anti-age action on the skin's appearance.
- Phytoretinol: a gentler plant-derived alternative, suitable even for sensitive skin and generally not photosensitising.
- Use these actives in the evening and introduce them gradually.
- Always apply SPF the next day, reapplying it every 2 hours in case of exposure.
- Pair them with peptides and good hydration for a more complete result.
