If you live with oily skin, midday shine and pores that always seem on show, salicylic acid is probably the active you are looking for. At a time when pore care — the targeted care of pores — is among the most discussed skincare topics, BHA remains the reliable point of reference: not a passing fad, but an exfoliant designed precisely for combination or oily-prone skin. Let's look at what it is, how it works and how to add it to your routine without stressing the skin.
What salicylic acid (BHA) is
Salicylic acid belongs to the BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) family, the chemical exfoliants based on beta-hydroxy acids. Its distinctive characteristic is that it is oil-soluble, that is, it has an affinity for oils. Unlike AHAs such as glycolic and mandelic acid, which work mainly on the surface, BHA can get close to the sebum inside the pore. This is why it has always been associated with oily skin, blackheads and uneven skin texture.
In practice, it is an exfoliant that helps remove dead cells and keep pores clearer, contributing to an overall cleaner, smoother look.
How it works and what the benefits are
BHA works by gently dissolving the bonds between dead cells on the surface and at the opening of the pore. This action translates into several benefits much appreciated by those with oily, blemish-prone skin:
- Refined-looking pores: by clearing the opening of the pore, the skin appears more even and pores seem less noticeable.
- Less shine: it helps manage excess sebum, for a more matte finish through the day.
- Smoother skin texture: regular exfoliation helps smooth the skin's texture and reduce the feeling of roughness.
- Help against blemishes: by keeping pores clearer, it helps limit the formation of blackheads and imperfections.
The current trend leans towards more balanced pore care: not attacking the skin, but pairing exfoliation with mattifying textures and light moisturisers, so as to control sebum without drying. BHA fits perfectly into this approach.
How to add it to your routine
Salicylic acid performs best when used consistently but without overdoing it. The American Academy of Dermatology's guidance on at-home exfoliation is a good reference: take into account the other products already in use (retinol or benzoyl peroxide, for example, can accentuate dryness and reactions), always follow with a moisturiser and do not overdo the frequency, because over-exfoliation leaves the skin red and irritated. Here are some practical pointers:
- Start gradually: 2-3 times a week is enough to begin, then you can see how your skin responds.
- Better in the evening: as with all acid exfoliants, evening use is preferable. The next day, always apply sun protection (SPF), because exfoliated skin is more sensitive to light.
- Do not layer too many actives: avoid combining it in the same step with other exfoliants or retinoids, so as not to irritate the skin. If you want to alternate them wisely, the skin cycling method is designed for exactly that.
- Always hydrate: even oily skin needs hydration. A light, mattifying texture is ideal, perhaps with niacinamide, the active that works on evenness and shine.
Recommended Chrissie products
For a routine designed for oily skin and pores, you can start from the BHA Salicylic Acid collection and the selection dedicated to Oily and blemish-prone skin.
Among the products to pair:
- Pore-Refining Gel Cream: a gel-cream texture that helps make pores look more refined and the skin more even.
- Mattifying Cream: designed to contribute to a matte finish and reduce the feeling of shine during the day.
- Foam Cleanser: gentle yet effective cleansing, perfect as the first step to prepare the skin.
In short
- Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble BHA, ideal for oily, blemish-prone skin and enlarged pores.
- It helps clear pores, manage sebum and make the skin's texture smoother and more even.
- Best used in the evening, 2-3 times a week at first, always applying SPF the next day.
- Pair it with mattifying textures and light moisturisers for a balanced approach to pore care.
